Monday, 7 November 2016

Exploring Warm Palettes

Is it enough just to wear warm colours?  In my case, no.  Low saturation is probably the most important quality, with warmth being a close second and of course, the best result is achieved with both qualities.  Not only do I need to find this combination in clothing but also in makeup.  It's the second part that is most challenging and I hate wasting money on makeup that turns out to be not quite right, though buying drugstore makeup means not everything can be tried out in advance of purchase.

Soft Autumn Makeup

The colours of blush and bronzer are easy enough to find, as browned colours, peaches and brick colours are abundant enough, but they must be quite sheer when applied.  I also must apply with a very light touch, especially if the product is not as sheer as I need it to be.

Eye shadow mistakes don't seem to be as drastic since my eyelids don't show much and I am tempted not to bother with eye shadow at all.  I am using black-brown mascara which seems to be okay.  The top lashes don't look drastically different from the bottom.

Lipstick has always been tricky and perhaps that's the reason I have experimented the most and wasted the most money on it.  I am drawn to it because a bit of lip colour gives me the most impact with the least effort but  it's very easy to get it wrong.  Lip colours pull pink on me and I've bought so many colours without trying them on and then being disappointed by the pinkification of my lips.
Christine Scaman explains in her book that this happens when the lipstick formula contains a lot of pink in the colour mix and on a warmish complexion that pink doesn't blend in with the rest of the facial colouring so it sits on top and becomes all that you see. 

The next challenge is colour saturation.  Blot blot blot, is the general rule but I've always liked the idea of swipe and go, and thick lipstick blotted leaves my lips feeling dry.

For that reason I tend to like sheer lipsticks or tinted balms.  The downside to those is they really don't have any staying power.  The upside is they generally are not drying and they do give me the sheer colour effect I need.  In this picture and all the pictures used below I am wearing my new favourite, Revlon Pink Truffle which is a sheer so it's going to come off with any eating or drinking or kissing the cat.

Gah! I took this photo for the sake of showing the lipstick and am rather horrified at the shadows and bags under my eyes.  Let's blame that horrible morphine withdrawl episode followed by a three day migraine.    I remind myself that I have a chronic illness and sometimes I look like I do, even wearing my best colours.

Swatched on white paper, Pink Truffle looks like a sheer warm brown.  That's how to tell Autumn lipsticks from Spring.  The Spring lipsticks will be a clearer, definite peach or coral pink.  You can see this is quite sheer and I did go back and forth on the paper a bit to make the colour show.  It feels very light and moist to wear, like lip balm

I am a big fan of Revlon Superlustrous lipsticks because some brands have a feel, taste or scent (or all three) which I cannot stand.  For me, these lipsticks don't offend. 

 Not long after deciding I am Soft Autumn I began to question.  Was I sure?  I've already been through Winter, Dark Winter, True Summer and Soft Summer.  I am sure now, but I did have to explore warmth in colour a bit more before being reminded that low saturation was also very important and thus Soft Autumn is the right one.  I am showing them here in the order that I think is best to worst of the warms.

This palette of soft muted colours still looks and feels right.  Though the purple and mauve-pink don't look quite as good to me, many of these colours look like the are the exact colours in me.  I tend to instinctively prefer that very blended look so the more a colour stands apart from me the less comfortable I feel.

                                              Muted Palette by Style and Image

 In  a Warm Autumn palette sample I look better than I thought I would.

                                                  Autumn Palette by Style and Image

 Though the colours seem seem a bit strong/saturated for me, most of them would be okay. Since they are getting to be a medium darkness and I once used darkness as a substitute for low saturation when I didn't understand that was what I needed, the darker of these colours look like reasonable choices to me.  My face recedes a bit though, not quite able to compete with the colours.

                                              Warm Palette by Style and Image

While the palette before this one is a dark-warm, this one is a light-warm.  It too seems reasonably good but the difference that doesn't perhaps show up too well here is that a spring type of palette is lightened with white, not lower saturation.  It looks  muted here but I think in reality they are meant to be brighter and more saturated colours.  Fruit punch, popsicle, sherbet, easter egg.  I think of them as thicker.

                                                      Spring by Style and Image

Again, this palette looks almost right except for that red.  Red is generally a stand-out colour but I  need a quite muted one, browned a bit ,while this is too clear and bright.  It doesn't relate to anything in my own colouring.  These colours are almost right because they are warm and they appear light.  Some of them might be better than others. 

It takes a bit of practice to not think in terms of colour names, such as coral pink or butter yellow, and to pay more attention to the qualities of the colour.  Is it a muted coral pink or a bright one?  Is it pastel or deep?  My approach has to be to seek out warmer colours than I used to ( which is not hard as I've always been attracted to them and used to pick them up, sigh and put them back ) and then ask myself, is this muted enough?  My Soft Autumn colour swatch fan helps with that, but as I practice I get better at seeing it simply in comparison with myself.

I've come a long way through dark and cool colours to much lighter and warmer ones.  Putting a photo inside these palettes might not be the best way to figure out which seasonal or tonal palette is best but it helps.

If you want to play around with putting your own photo inside colour palettes the link to Style and Image is below.

Try Out Colour Palettes

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