Friday, 22 September 2017

Pink Is Problematic

Knowing a season that fits you, having a palette fan, looking at images online, none of those things guarantee that the colours you are looking for are in the store or that you will be able to distinguish your best blues from all the other blues.  It takes practice and it takes comparison.

I have difficulty identifying the warmth of colours that are not inherently warm.   It's a bit of a simplification to say the colours I am looking for are warm ones, as the question is how warm, warmed with what, yellow or gold and while it is easier to fudge with the colours that always seem warm, like peach, coral, yellow or orange, and red and green always seem more obvious in it's relative warmth or coolness to me, I have difficult with pink, purple and blue as well as the turquoise/teal range.  Teal and turquoise are often considered universally flattering colours as they are made of colours from both the warm and cool side of the colour wheel.  However, they can lean warmer or cooler, depending on the mix.

More accurately, I should say they can have more yellow or more blue.

There is a version of nearly every colour in every seasonal palette, with the exception of yellow and orange for the coolest palettes.  True Summer has no orange and it's rare, very cool yellow is difficult to find and identify.  It seems that every colour can be warmed up enough for the Spring palette and I find the bright pink very tricky.


When I see it in comparison to the purple-looking magenta pinks of the Winter palette it makes more sense but it seems about as rare as the cool, pale yellow of the summer palette.  This is why Christine Scaman recommends comparing colours in the store, gathering up garments of similar colour even though you don't intend to try them on or buy them.  Compare all the versions of bright pink you find, which  I suppose this will work better in a department store or large thrift shop.  Smaller stores tend to get one set of colours in each season, as though the merchandise all came from the same dye-lot.

 A warm pink that is not muted looks a little as though it is lit from inside with a soft yellow light.  It is almost coral but still one would first say that it is pink.  Depending on which colour system you are looking at, there is more pink or very little pink in the True/Warm Spring palette.  I favour the Sci-Art palettes for their carefully measured colours.  Some systems give me the impression that someone just eye-balled the collection and picked the colours out of a bin.

I used to call a very bright pink 'hot pink' and now I am thinking the term should only be applied to the Spring bright pink, since it is the one that is actually warm.  Bright, magenta-pinks are often very cool and blue-based. 

A Bit of a Digression about Pink Lipstick

Pink lipstick was quite problematic for me until I discovered I needed it to be warmed.  Nervous about bright colours I went in the brown direction until I worked my way through the Soft Season Palettes right into the orange-brown colours of True Autumn.  Brown certainly does warm up a lipstick colour and my natural pigmentation is very pink so lipsticks get even pinker on me than expected.  This seems to turn the oranges into corals but it makes finding a lipstick that will read as pink but not too pink a little bit tricky.  My favourite, Revlon Super Lustrous Abstract orange, which looks brown orange in the tube reads as a bright coral on me. 

I will venture into the corals and lighter oranges next lipstick purchase, which is exactly where a True Spring should go.  I am tiptoeing in though, as they seem bright to me.

Revlon Teak Rose is working for me, I think, though I blot it.  I blot everything except the lightest and sheerest of colours.  Although you won't usually see pinks recommended as lipstick for True Autumn I did spot this one recommended somewhere.  Lipstick results vary according to the pigmentation of your natural lip so these suggestions are guidelines. 

The first photo is wearing Abstract Orange and the second wearing Teak Rose.  In the one minute it took me to change lip colours the light shifted but it's fairly accurate in both photos.

I think these photos show that while there is a pink I can wear, the orange-coral looks better.  It's all just personal taste though.  Because to my eye different lip colours work better with different outfits I like having a pinker option.  Lipstick has become my thing.  I only use minimal eye makeup and nothing else. 

 Comparing Pinks Between Seasons

Here is a graphic showing makeup colour suggestions for the True Spring compared with Bright Winter and True Summer.  See how different the pinks are even when they seem bright.  When the bright pink of the True Spring palette is seen in context with the rest of the palette it just looks like bright pink.  It takes on a more coral appearance in comparison with the blue-pinks of the cooler palettes.   Bright Spring is comparatively cooler than True Spring but in comparison with the other palettes it's hint of a coral look can still be seen.

All graphics belong to and can be found at 12 Blueprints or do a Google  search using the key words 'best makeup colours for" and add the season you want.

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